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Spantik Expedition

Expedition

Spantik Expedition is a technically easy, well suited for beginners and at a mountain, which isn’t overcrowded yet. Spantik Peak is very well known as the easiest mountain from south side while it’s north pillar is one of the most stunning granite faces that has attracted top rock climbers in last 20 years. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color gave its name as “Ghenish Chhish”, which in Brushaski language means “Mountain of Gold”. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers in Nagar Valley.

35 Days
18+ Age
  • Destination

  • Departure

    Islamabad, Pakistan
  • Departure Time

    Any time
  • Return Time

    Approximately 8:30 PM.
  • Dress Code

    Trekking and climbing ecuipment
  • Included

    All taxes and official expenses
    Basic guesthouse accommodation
    Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
    City tour
    Departure Taxes
    Domestic flights
    Hotel
    Local staff and porters
    Permits and TIMS permit
    Personal Guide
  • Not Included

    Alcohol and cold drinks
    Entry visa
    International flights
    Mandatory travel insurance
    Personal trekking equipment
    Tips for trekking staff and driver
1

Day 1: Arrive in Islamabad

Transfer to hotel, in the rest time of sightseeing in Islamabad and Rawalpini, visit of largest mosque in Asia and old local Bazaar.
2

Day 2: Islamabad City Tour

In the morning, we'll arrive in Islamabad, the gateway to the unique mountains of northern Pakistan. Today, we'll visit Rawalpindi or Islamabad and complete our administrative tasks in the Ministry of Tourism.
3

Day 3: Rawalpindi–Chilas

Depending on how we are getting on with the ministries and the liaison officer, we will already start our 12-hour journey to Chilas today to escape the heat of Islamabad. On our drive, we will cross corn fields, rice fields and tea plantations. To get to Thakot, the entrance to the Indus Valley, we will follow the Karakorum Highway along the Indus to Besham and then continue to Chilas.
4

Day 4: Drive to Skardu

About 50km past Chilas, we will enjoy our first glimpse of Nanga Parbat (8125m). We will continue on the im­pressive Karakorum Highway to the main village Gilgit. Instead of heading to the Hunza Valley, we will further follow the Indus to reach "Little Tibet" and cross the typical wild canyons. Driving time: 10 hours.
5

Day 5: Skardu

Today, we will stay in Skardu. We will hire our porters, divide the entire luggage into 25kg loads and of course explore Skardu.
6

Day 6: Drive to Arandu 2770 m.

We will load our luggage onto jeeps. Together with the porters, we will drive for 6-7 hours along the scenic Shigar Valley, always following the Basha River. Just before the village of Arandu near Gon, we will pitch up our first camp. Our trip through the Basha Valley may hold some surprises – such as when landslides block the road, requiring a short bypass on foot.
7

Day 7: Trek Chogo Brangsa camp 3324 m.

From now on, we'll continue on foot. We will start walking through the beautiful village of Arandu. A little later, we will cross the enormous Chogo Lungma Glacier for the first time. Our hike will take us along the glacier onto the lateral moraine. Within 5-6 hours, we should reach our first camp on the northern side of the Chogo Lungma Glacier, near the mountain pasture of Chogo Brangsa. The Baltistani porters, who joined us in Arandu, will carry most of our luggage, in precisely measured loads of 25kg.
8

Day 8: Trek to Brangsa camp 3,324 m. – Bolocho camp 3,800 m.

We'll continue along the side of the Chogo Lungma Glacier and then cross a side glacier. After about 6-7 hours, we'll reach our second camp for the night.
9

Day 9: Spantik base camp 4,350 m.

Today, we'll step foot onto the giant glacier already in the morning and move across crevasses and piles of rubble. We'll spend the next hours on the glacier, from where we can enjoy the beautiful view of Spantik and many other photographic scenes. After 5-6 hours and some final exertions on the last steep slope, we can finally set up our base camp on a green shoulder below our ascent route.
10

Day 10: Rest day at base camp

In view of good acclimatization, we will use today as a rest day.
11

Day 11-29: Ascent of Spantik

We will have plenty of time to climb Spantik. With the help of our porters, we will set up 3 camps and secure short sections of the route with fixed ropes.
Camp I: 5050m
Camp II: 5450m
Camp III: 6300m
Ascent Route:
Our route starts near our base camp with a steep but technically easy ascent through a rocky area. We'll reach the crest of the first plateau, where we will set up camp I (5050m). We'll follow the ridge up to a short, steep descent to another plateau where we will set up camp II (5450m). We'll then climb another 200 meters along the ridge, before reaching the steep flanks of Spantik II, which will lead us up to camp III (6300m). Depending on the conditions, we will set up fixed ropes to provide maximum security. After Camp III, the route leads over wide snow fields. We will form roped parties up to the south ridge of the main summit. Along the ridge, we will we can climb to the summit (7027) in technically easy terrain.
12

Day 30-31: Chogo Brangsa 3324 m.

We will start early in the morning and cross the Chogo Lungma Glacier once more to descend into the valley. On the way back, we will only need one intermediate camp, which we will pitch up just above Chogo Brangsa. The beautiful view from here is inspiring to reflect on our journey and document it photographically. Walking time: 7-8 hours.
13

Day 32: Trek to Arandu, Drive to Skardu.

Once again, we will start early. We'll take the same way back to Arando, which we should reach in 4-5 hours. From here, we'll drive back to Skardu by jeep.
14

Day 33: Fly to Islamabad.

If the weather allows for it, we will enjoy a wonderful flight over the Karakorum back to Islamabad.
15

Day 34: Islamabad City Tour

Today, we will have time to visit the bazaars, do some shopping and enjoy Islamabad.
16

Day 35: Departure day

Our representative will drop you to the airport.

Tour Location

Spantik Peak

Spantik Peak is very well known as the easiest mountain from south side while it’s north pillar is one of the most stunning granite faces that has attracted top rock climbers in last 20 years. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color gave its name as “Ghenish Chhish”, which in Brushaski language means “Mountain of Gold”. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers in Nagar Valley. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They climbed up to within 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and huge plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest Golden Pillar in an Alpine style Push in 1987 returning via the prominent Southwest Spur. Most recently Spantik (7027m) has been a favorite of climbers for training themselves for higher objectives. The approach route to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast Ridge is known as the normal route that is easily achievable. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some tough and easy patches. The summit view is absolutely breathtaking on clear day presenting grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have necessary technical abilities on ice and snow and at least have been on some smaller peaks. High altitude experience and necessary technical skills are required to be on this expedition.

Tour Review Scores And Score Breakdown

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